Here Be Elephants

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On paved roads during this section it tends to be a good quality road but no paved shoulder is available. There is a flat, dirt shoulder you can use to avoid trucks when they’re coming from both directions at once. Unpaved roads are usually hard packed red dirt and not too terrible to ride on… though I expect they’re pretty nasty during the rainy season.

2011.1.16
Cities: Ha Tien to Kampot
Distance: 36.8 miles
Total Ascent: 170 feet
Avg Speed: 7.5 MPH

Dirt road in the beginning, which we elected to stay on as it was more direct to Kampot than going through Kampong Trach. The road was completely flat. Traffic non-existent on the dirt road and light on the paved road.

2011.1.20
Cities: Kampot to Veal Rinh
Distance: 34.4 miles
Total Ascent: 179 feet
Avg Speed: 8 MPH

Took highway 3 out of Kampot which is paved all the way to Sihanoukville if you’re going there. We stopped in Veal Rinh, which is at the crossroads of the 3 and the 4, since we were on our way north and heard there was no guest houses available after Veal Rinh. Terrible guest house in Veal Rinh, but at least it was a bed.

2011.1.21
Cities: Veal Rinh to Anduong Tuek
Distance: 56 miles
Total Ascent: 880 feet
Avg Speed: 9 MPH

Took the 4 north out of Veal Rinh. More paved road + unpaved shoulder… not too terrible in the traffic department. Turned off onto the 48, which will lead you to Koh Kong but we just wanted to get to Anduong Tuek. The 48 is much quieter so the cycling is far more pleasant. Expect light hills.

2011.1.22
Cities: Anduong Tuek to Chi Phat
Distance: 14.6 miles
Total Ascent: 450 feet
Avg Speed: 5.7 MPH

If the boat isn’t running, which it generally isn’t during the dry season, you have to take a small dirt road to get to Chi Phat. There’s a sign pointing you to Chi Phat about 3 km before you get to Anduong Tuek on the 48. From there just follow the power cables whenever there’s an ambiguous choice for the road. Short but steep hills are common but it’s a quick ride.

2011.1.26
Cities: Chi Phat to Picnic Resort
Distance: 34.8 miles by bike + 15 miles by boat
Total Ascent: 970 feet ascent
Avg Speed: 7.4 MPH

Retraced our steps back to the 4 from Chi Phat. We hired a private boat back to Anduong Tuek instead of bothering with the dirt road again, which cost us $25 for both of us and our bikes. Nice journey, and potentially you can see monkeys though we did not. At around the 135 km mark to Phnom Penh there’s a “Picnic Resort” advertised that makes the ideal stopping point. Very comfortable and cheap bungalows but very expensive restaurant.

2011.1.27
Cities: Picnic Resort to Kampong Speu
Distance: 54.6 miles
Total Ascent: 838 feet
Avg Speed: 8.4 MPH

Nasty route on the 4. Traffic has picked up by this time and the scenery is very dull. There’s a brief 2 km ascent and some light hills, but nothing too horrendous.

2011.1.28
Cities: Kampong Speu to Phnom Penh
Distance: 31 miles
Total Ascent: 154 feet
Avg Speed: 9.1 MPH

Straight flat and easy, though again traffic is bad. We stuck to riding mostly in the hard packed dirt shoulder to avoid the terrifying trucks. The 4 will lead you directly to the riverside in central Phnom Penh.